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Maui (Lonely Planet) ReviewVisiting Maui is an enigma. On the one hand, people visit it for a taste of tropical paradise, for its ties to all things Hawaiiana, and for escape from the ordinary.
On the other hand, people live there, with the tourist-spawned traffic jams, artificial smiles, world-class housing prices (not a compliment), and the lines of bicyclists coming down Haleakala (temporarily suspended, thank goodness).
Tourism is both a blessing and a curse.
Lonely Planet's new version of its guidebook to Maui, Molokai, and Lanai is a roadmap to these three islands (focusing primarily on Maui, of course).
In general, this book does what it is designed to do... introduce visitors to places and events. Whether you are looking for dining, snorkeling, or wine-tasting opportunities; eco-friendly businesses; or just some Maui history, this book will live up to your expectations. It's not as blunt as Maui Revealed (a competing guidebook); you won't find many negative reviews. This volume falls into the traditional, "don't worry, be happy" genre of guidebooks.
First, what do I know? I don't live on Maui. However, I have relatives who homesteaded on Maui in return for land, and still have many extended family members living there. I've visited on multiple occasions, and have been there for business reasons or conferences, including a week long sea turtle workshop. There's a bunch of stuff I've never done on Maui, and a lot I have done: wine-tasting, plays, beach action, Haleakala hikes, diving, Molokini, lounging in Lahaina, and eating plate lunch. So I've been part of both the visitor and local scenes, and my comments stem from these experiences.
In general, this book does what it is intended to do. I would caution you that it puts a positive spin on practically everything (except the Superferry), so be warned.
Here are some specific comments:
- The cover. If you've been to Molokini over the past 5 years, you won't see the Molokini characterized on this cover, with those 4 snorkeling adventure boats, widely spaced. Now, you'll see captains racing for the islet to get to their favorite spot to anchor, and the numbers will be 20+. Your guide will tell you to paddle close to the boat. Really, the experience is highly degraded with the number of operators allowed to exploit this marine ecosystem. Sad. So I wonder about the appropriateness of Molokini unexploited as a cover photo.
- This book has a neat collection of "Island Voices" - real people from different walks of life - featured as vignettes and sprinkled throughout the book. I enjoyed these.
- This volume of the Lonely Planet guide to Maui features businesses and organizations that have an "active sustainable-tourism policy." There's a special index at the end of the book listing these sustainable activities and organizations. Note, however, there is a real difference between "sustainability" and "sustainable-tourism." "Nuff said.
- In a little box highlighting "Plants as Medicine" (p. 49), the authors recommend a book written by Auntie Bea. Yay!
- As the book delves into the various regions of Maui, the authors suggest activities that may fit into a 2 day trip, longer trips, or even "green" trips. These will probably prove useful for many visitors to get their visit jump-started.
- The section on Haleakala does a nice job reminding visitors that, although they are visiting a tropical paradise, the summit is over 10,000 feet above sea level. "Slippahs", shorts, and t-shirts are not part of the recommended dress code here, especially when the fog and clouds blow in, and if you've ventured down Sliding Sands trail, you'll quickly note how you've underdressed or are wearing inappropriate shoes. On the other hand, to stand in the crater, watching the clouds roll toward you, and breathing in these same clouds... magical. The fleece and windbreaker, however, will increase your ability to enjoy this experience!
- "In the 1960s, while tourism brought much-needed cash into the new state, it also brought further erosion of traditional Hawaiian culture, which was increasingly replaced by mainland American culture" (p. 250). I agree with this comment, totally. The exploitation of Hawaiiana for profit, however, has not ebbed. Catch this mistake: "No art form is more uniquely Hawaiian than the hula" (p. 256). However, the photo accompanying this comment, with dancers with coconut shell bras and Tahitian hats, is not Hawaiian luau! It is giving tourists what they want, and part of the "...further erosion of traditional Hawaiian culture." So it goes, on and on and on.
- Sometimes there are statements that seem to come out of left field, particularly overly broad characterizations:
"People are fairly early risers, often taking a run along the beach or hitting the waves before heading to the office" (p. 251). Although many people run or surf, the majority of locals do not. This image, however, gives tourists the "Blue Crush" perception of life in Hawaii.
"In the greater scheme of Hawaiian places Maui is considered the more sophisticated sister... It is no coincidence that the current governor of Hawaii... was the former mayor of Maui County" (p. 251). Folks in Honolulu, home of the majority of governors, will find this capture of the "sophistication crown" a bit presumptuous.
- Top picks for souvenirs? Aloha shirts, lavender body lotions, Maui-made crafts, pineapple wine, Maui chocolates, ukuleles, and hand-blown glass (p. 272)? Does this seem like "...further erosion of traditional Hawaiian culture, which was increasingly replaced by mainland American culture"? Just a thought. I'd say consumerism isn't the necessary souvenir here: memories, photos, and experiences are more like it. Probably the most common souvenir is the Hawaiiana-theme t-shirt!
- Kudos to the authors for discussing the problem with robberies of cars. This pain in the rear, for tourists in rental cars and locals alike, is a blight on the islands. Why the police departments aren't more aggressive in curtailing this problem is beyond me. Just look at the broken windshield glass in the parking lots... it's turning into the new Maui sand!
- "Read this book, now forget it!" This little reminder on page 283 (close to the end) should be moved closer to the front. It's a reminder that Maui is a place to be discovered, and not simply an experience programmed to have you at point A in time X. Whew! This might seem critical, but I repeat that "...this book does what it is designed to do... introduce visitors to places and events." It's not perfect, but no travel guide is.
I often tell friends visiting Maui that I know where they will go and what they will see in that 3-5 day visit. It's not that big of a place, and books like this tend to encourage folk to visit all the same places. It's the same with Oahu.
So the Lonely Planet guidebook to Maui will give you a great deal of information about this small speck of land in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It won't tell you much about the nearshore and off-shore ocean environments. It really features Maui as a playground, and not a living place. And since thousands of people visit Maui every week to do just that (play), this book will work for them.
Aloha.
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